SOCRATES gives us a stunning view. In the 40 minutes it takes to fly from Athens, our philosophically named plane skims so low over the jigsaw of Aegean islands that we can see their scribbled goat tracks and ragged coastlines.
In the distance, beyond the tracery of cruise ships, the island of Mykonos, known as Greece's party isle, glistens like a mirror ball. It isn't long before we descend towards the hilly outpost of Samos, uniquely shaped like a kangaroo.
